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8×8 utility shed

An 8×8 shed with a concrete floor, two windows and a left-hinged door that opens clear of the front window.

View Instructions
  • Revision: 5
  • Last updated:
  • Steps: 15
  • Difficulty: advanced
  • License: Owner-confirmed permission to publish; no attribution required
Before you start
  • Complete the foundation, structural connections, hardware and weatherproofing details before construction.
  • Use this configuration's drawings and cut lists. It covers the concrete floor and hinged door; the original sliding-door cuts and fittings do not apply.
  • Cut-list dimensions include allowances for fitting panel edges. Confirm stock purchases and sheet layouts before ordering.
  • The slab quantity excludes footings and thickened edges. Anchor sizes and embedment must be specified in the foundation design.
  • The roof pitch is 3:12. Select windows, door hardware and roofing products before finalizing connections and clearances.
  • Plan safe lifting, temporary bracing and overhead work for the heavy panels and sharp metal edges.
  • Hinges go on the left when viewed from outside. Fit a positive 90-degree limiting stay and hold-open fitting to keep the door clear of the window and prevent it slamming in wind.
Plan details

Left outswing door on concrete floor

The door opens outward to 90 degrees, leaving the front window clear and a 40 3/4-inch-wide passage between the stops.

Build wall and roof panels for an 8-by-8-foot shed with a 3:12 roof. The custom door opens outward to a required 90-degree stop. This configuration includes drawings, instructions, CAD files and cut lists for the concrete-floor version. Restored September 7 edition. The original downloadable files retain their earlier revision labels.

Use the FreeCAD model to inspect and edit dimensions. Import the STEP file into other CAD software.

Recheck adjoining parts, dimensions, cut lists and instructions after changing the model.

Dimensions and opening sizes
Outside wall framing width8 ft. Siding and battens project outside this line.
96 in
Outside wall framing depth8 ft. Roof overhangs are additional.
96 in
Framing footprintThe slab field matches this footprint.
64 ft²
Front wall heightUse this height with this configuration's cut list.
95 in
Rear wall heightSets the rear roof-bearing height for this configuration.
71 7/8 in
Roof widthIncludes 1 in projections on both sides; confirm product coverage.
98 in
Roof horizontal depth144 in sheet length measured along the 3:12 slope.
139 11/16 in
Framed door opening widthBefore door stops; usable passage at 90 degrees is 40 3/4 in.
42 in
Framed door opening heightAbove slab; usable height above the threshold is 87 in.
88 in
Door leaf widthCustom framed leaf with two 3/8 in plywood skins.
41 5/8 in
Door leaf heightBottom at 3/4 in; top at 87 7/8 in above slab.
87 1/8 in
Front sash widthConfirm the opening with the selected window.
29 in
Front sash heightSix-light sash illustrated.
36 in
Rear sash widthConfirm the opening with the selected window.
36 in
Rear sash heightThree-light sash illustrated.
18 in
Door leaf thickness1 1/2 in frame plus two 3/8 in skins.
2 1/4 in
Usable passage width at 90 degreesBetween stops with the leaf fully open.
40 3/4 in
Usable passage heightBetween threshold and head stop.
87 in
Shopping & cut lists

Get the shopping and cut lists

Includes all available CAD files, shopping lists and cut lists for every configuration of this plan. One payment, $19 USD plus applicable tax.

Get the plan package · $19
Tools & equipment
  • Tape measure, framing square, level and layout lines
  • Saw and guides for lumber and plywood
  • Clamps and a stable panel-assembly bench
  • Drill/driver and tools for the specified connectors
  • Roofing tools for the selected metal profile
  • Foundation tools and lifting equipment
  • Eye, hearing and hand protection, and safe overhead access

BEFORE YOU BUILD

Use this work at your own risk

These files have not been checked for accuracy, safety, structural adequacy, or building-code compliance. They may contain serious errors and are not construction-ready. Obtain independent qualified design and review before building.

No person or organization makes any guarantee or warranty, express or implied, regarding this design, its documentation, digital files, or website views. They are not professional services and do not create an architect-client or other professional-client relationship. No promise is made about accuracy, completeness, reliability, code compliance, or fitness for your project.

Buildings and building projects are complex, and many things can go wrong. You are responsible for checking dimensions and site conditions, choosing suitable materials and methods, obtaining permits, following codes and manufacturer instructions, and getting qualified professional help when needed. To the fullest extent permitted by law, DIYPlans.org disclaims liability for damages resulting from use of this work. Read the FAQ about your responsibilities.

Instructions

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Step 1 Confirm the site design

  • Check the 8-by-8-foot framing footprint and concrete-floor layout on the dimension sheet.
  • Have the foundation, structure, fasteners, door and window details specified for your site before ordering materials. Use this variant's drawings and cut lists.

Check: The site design covers the 8-by-8-foot footprint, foundation, connections and selected openings.

Step 2 Set out the footprint

  • Mark a 96-by-96-inch square at the outside faces of the wall framing. Adjust the corners until both diagonals measure 135 3/4 inches.
  • Check drainage, access and the required location before excavation. Allow for the plywood and battens outside the framing line.
  • Allow room for the roof and runoff. The roof is 98 inches wide and about 139 11/16 inches from front to rear in horizontal projection.
  • Keep the outward door swing and approach clear of obstacles and grade changes.

Check: The framing square and diagonals match, with room for the roof, drainage and door swing.

Step 3 Prepare the foundation

  • Prepare bearing levels, excavation, compacted base, reinforcing, moisture control and anchorage to the completed foundation design.
  • Use the 96-by-96-by-4-inch slab shown to check the layout. Its 0.7901 cubic yard volume excludes footings and thickened edges; add those from the foundation design before ordering concrete.
  • Confirm the 14 anchor locations, sizes and embedment from that design before drilling.
  • Keep the slab square and level. Let it cure as specified before installing walls.

Check: The slab is square, level and cured, with anchorage specified for the site.

Step 4 Prepare and label the panel parts

  • Label each piece from the parts list. Use the cut list for repeated cuts and fitted-edge allowances, and work out stock purchases separately.
  • Use 2×4 and 2×6 lumber. Check the header backing, ripped front-window header and beveled side studs before cutting.
  • Mark each panel front, rear, left or right. Keep the roof slope toward the rear.

Check: The parts are labeled and the header and bevel cuts match their panel locations.

Step 5 Assemble the two rear panels

  • Lay out two rear frames 48 inches wide and 71 7/8 inches high, including sill and plate, on a flat bench.
  • Fit two outside studs and horizontal girts to each frame to support the plywood.
  • Leave a 36-by-18-inch window opening in the right-hand panel, with its bottom 49 1/2 inches above the slab. Check the selected window before attaching plywood.

Check: Both rear panels match, and the right-hand window opening fits the selected window.

Step 6 Assemble the four side panels

  • Build two 44 1/2-inch-long frames for each side, fitting between the front and rear walls. Mark the taller ends as front.
  • Cut stud tops to the 3:12 slope, a 3-inch fall over 12 inches of horizontal run. Use the cut list's long-point lengths and 14.036-degree bevel.
  • Place girts at 24 and 48 inches above the slab. Dry-fit the frames with the front and rear walls before fixing plywood.

Check: All four side frames fit between the end walls and slope toward the rear.

Step 7 Assemble the front window panel

  • Build the left-front panel 48 inches wide and 95 inches high.
  • Leave a window opening 29 inches wide and 36 inches high, with its bottom 51 inches above the slab.
  • Use the specified material and connections for the 2×6 header, ripped to 5 inches deep, and its separate backing.
  • Fit the window blocking and square the panel before sheathing.

Check: The front panel is square and its window opening matches the selected window.

Step 8 Frame the left-hinged opening

  • Frame the right-front opening 42 inches wide and 88 inches high, with its left edge 51 inches from the left building edge.
  • Keep the paired studs together to support the hinges. Fit stops at both jambs and the head behind the closed door.
  • Fit the proposed half-inch threshold to the selected outward-draining detail. The stops and threshold leave a passage 40 3/4 inches wide and 87 inches high.
  • Confirm hinge fasteners and threshold fit before fixing their final positions.

Check: The opening and passage dimensions match, with solid hinge backing and an outward-draining threshold.

Step 9 Stand, join and brace the walls

  • Start at a rear corner. Raise and brace each panel, then join the side and front panels with the specified connectors.
  • Keep the frame 96 inches square, the diagonals equal and the walls plumb. Keep paired studs together at panel seams.
  • Fit sill separation and anchors to the foundation design. Check its locations against the 14 anchors shown, two in each of the seven closed panel sills.
  • Leave temporary braces until permanent bracing and connections are complete.

Check: The walls are square, plumb, joined and anchored, with temporary braces secure.

Step 10 Assemble the two roof panels

  • Build two roof panels 48 inches wide, each with two edge rafters and seven 45-inch girts. Their inner rafters meet at the building center.
  • Lay out the frame for 31 inches of horizontal projection beyond the front wall and 7 inches beyond the rear. The length along the 3:12 slope is 138 1/8 inches.
  • Mark plumb rafter ends and two 7/8-inch-deep bearing seats on blanks about 139 inches long. Check a full-size template before cutting.
  • Have the seats, girt spacing, end joints and cantilever sized for the required loads before assembly.

Check: Both roof frames match the checked template and the site design.

Step 11 Set and connect the roof frames

  • Use the planned lifting method to set both roof panels with the high end at the front. Check that the seats bear on the front and rear plates.
  • Join the center seam and eight roof-to-wall connections with the selected rated connectors and their specified fasteners.
  • Keep workers off unsupported frames. Confirm connector sizes from the site design; the drawings show locations only.

Check: Both frames bear on the plates, and the center seam and eight wall connections are complete.

Step 12 Fit the plywood, trim and roofing

  • Fit 3/8-inch exterior plywood with a half-inch extension below the floor. Trim upper panel and batten edges to the drawn roof and soffit profiles; the cut list includes fitting allowances.
  • Install the specified weather barrier, corner details and panel gaps. Fit three-inch seam battens, fascia and soffits.
  • Lay out two 50-by-144-inch roof sheets with a two-inch side overlap and one-inch side projections. Leave about 2 15/16 inches of sheet beyond the frame at front and rear, measured along the slope.
  • Confirm coverage, support spacing, closures, flashing and fasteners with the roofing supplier before ordering.

Check: Cladding edges and roof sheets fit, with complete weather protection and supported joints.

Step 13 Install and seal the windows

  • Fit the selected front and rear windows with their required sill pans, jamb and head flashing, clearances and fasteners.
  • Check actual window sizes before installation. The front layout shows six panes and the rear three.
  • Check projecting window hardware against the door, hinges and 90-degree stay. Keep the front window clear of the door swing and all drainage paths open.

Check: Windows are secure and flashed, with open drainage and clearance from the door hardware.

Step 14 Build and hang the left outswing door

  • Build the leaf 41 5/8 inches wide, 87 1/8 inches high and 2 1/4 inches thick. Fit two 3/8-inch exterior plywood skins around a 1 1/2-inch-thick frame.
  • Use two full-height 2×4 stiles and three 34 5/8-inch rails between them. Assemble with the specified exterior joints, adhesive and fasteners, then seal every edge.
  • Fit three rated hinges on the left as viewed from outside. Set the hinge line 51 inches from the left framing edge and 7/8 inch in front of the wall frame.
  • Check the closed leaf against the selected hinge template. Its left edge is 51 1/8 inches from the left framing edge, its outer face is 2 1/2 inches in front of the frame, and its bottom is 3/4 inch above the slab.
  • Leave 1/8 inch above the leaf, 1/4 inch at the latch jamb and 1/4 inch above the threshold. Fit a positive 90-degree limiting stay, hold-open fitting, latch and seals.
  • Test the full swing with all hardware fitted. At 90 degrees, keep the window clear and the passage between stops 40 3/4 inches wide.

Check: The door swings freely to its 90-degree stop, clears the window and latches against even seals.

Step 15 Check the completed assembly

  • Check the footprint, wall plumb, roof slope, bearings, panel seams and fasteners against the completed construction documents.
  • Open and latch the door. Check the 90-degree stop, hold-open fitting, window clearance and flashing drainage.
  • Finish exposed plywood edges and end grain. Record any changes on the drawings, cut list and instructions.

Check: Connections, finishes, door operation and drainage pass the final checks.

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