BEFORE YOU BUILD
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Instructions
Step 1 Check and cut the stock
- Measure the actual board thicknesses and widths. Stop and revise the model if they differ from the scheduled sections.
- Crosscut and label the eight legs, four crossbars, six rails and six seats. Keep the longer middle-bay pieces separate.
- Trim the five top planks to 288 in only after confirming the final frame layout. Reserve straight, sound stock for the long spans.
Check: Count 29 wood parts. All ends are square; the top boards have no splice.
Step 2 Mark the leg joints
- Mark every leg from its bottom end. Mark the top lap from 21 1/2 to 27 in, removing 2 3/4 in from the same longitudinal half of each leg.
- Mark each rail mortise 12 1/4 to 15 1/4 in above the foot and centred across the 5 1/2-in leg width. Cut it 3 in wide and 2 in deep from the rail-facing end.
- Cut one mortise in each end-frame leg. Cut opposing mortises in each middle-frame leg, leaving a 1 1/2-in web. Keep the outer side faces intact.
- Fit a trial 3 x 3-in tenon in scrap. Adjust for a snug sliding fit before cutting all joints.
Check: The rail shoulders will finish at 11 and 16 1/2 in above the foot.
Step 3 Assemble the cross frames
- Cut the complementary 5 1/2-in-long, 2 3/4-in-deep lap at each end of every 94-in crossbar.
- Clamp one crossbar to its two legs. Keep the crossbar top 27 in above the feet and the outside leg faces 94 in apart.
- Match-drill 9/16-in holes along the table length at 23 and 25 1/2 in above the feet, centred 2 3/4 in across each leg. Fit two 1/2-in bolts per joint.
- Repeat for the remaining three frames and label them 1 to 4. Keep them movable until the bench rails are fitted.
Check: Each frame has equal diagonals and coplanar feet. Tighten without crushing the wood.
Step 4 Cut the bench-rail tenons
- Mark a 2-in shoulder at each end of every rail. Leave a centred 3 x 3-in tenon by removing 1 1/4 in from each face.
- Keep 87 3/4 in between shoulders on the four outer-bay rails and 90 1/2 in on the two middle-bay rails.
- Mark each retaining-bolt line 1 in from the tenon tip and centred through the tenon height. Do not drawbore or offset these holes.
- Dry-fit the rails to the corresponding mortises. Keep the shoulders square and fully seated.
Check: The middle rail is 94 1/2 in overall; each outer rail is 91 3/4 in.
Step 5 Join the first bay
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Loading image- Stand frame 1 on the level base and brace it temporarily. Insert both first-bay rails into its mortises at the same time.
- Support the free rail ends at the correct height. Slide frame 2 onto both tenons until every shoulder closes. Keep hands away from closing joints.
- Match-drill 9/32-in holes across the table width through the leg and tenon at each marked pin line. Fit the four 1/4-in retaining bolts and washers.
- Check 93 1/4 in from the outer end of frame 1 to the leading face of frame 2. Do not use the bolts to pull a badly fitted joint closed.
Check: The clear first bay is 87 3/4 in; the rail tops are 16 1/2 in above the base.
Step 6 Add the middle bay
- Insert the two longer rails into frame 2. Support them and slide frame 3 onto both free ends.
- Seat the shoulders, then match-drill and install four retaining bolts as for the first bay.
- Measure the leading face of frame 3 at 189 1/4 in from the same outer end. Check the base diagonals and frame alignment.
Check: The middle clear bay is 90 1/2 in. Both middle frames stay upright and parallel.
Step 7 Close the final bay
- Insert the remaining two outer-bay rails into frame 3 and slide frame 4 onto their ends.
- Install the last four rail retaining bolts. Align the leading face of frame 4 at 282 1/2 in.
- Check the complete frame measures 288 x 94 in across its outer wood faces. Adjust the base so all eight feet bear before removing temporary braces.
Check: All rail shoulders close and the four crossbar tops share one plane.
Step 8 Fit the six seats
- Position the two longer seats in the middle bay and the four shorter seats in the outer bays. Keep 1/8 in clear at each leg.
- Align each seat outside edge with the outside of the frame. The seat projects 5 3/4 in inward beyond its bench rail.
- Use four screw stations along each seat, 6 in from the ends and evenly spaced between. At each station, place screws 1 1/4 and 4 1/4 in from the outside edge.
- Drill clearance holes through the seat and manufacturer-sized pilots into the rail. Drive eight #12 x 3-in screws per seat with heads flush.
Check: Every screw enters the rail. Seats finish at 18 in and do not bridge the leg gaps.
Step 9 Position the first top plank
- Mark the first tabletop outside edge 18 3/8 in from the near outside frame edge.
- With the planned lifting assistance, set the first 24-ft plank across all four crossbars. Align both ends with the outer frames.
- Use one #12 x 3-in screw on the plank centreline at each crossbar centre, measured from one end at 2 3/4, 96, 192 and 285 1/4 in.
- Drill board clearance holes and manufacturer-sized pilots. Keep the screw heads flush and the plank edges free to move across their width.
Check: The first plank bears on all four crossbars without rocking.
Step 10 Complete the tabletop
- Set the remaining four planks with 1/4-in spacers between their long edges. Keep the ends aligned.
- Fasten each plank through its centreline at the four crossbars. Use 20 top screws total. Do not glue the edges or add fixed fasteners near both edges.
- Check the final tabletop width is 57 1/4 in and the outside margins are 18 3/8 in on both sides.
- Remove the spacers and confirm the planned gaps remain open along the full length.
Check: The tabletop finishes at 28 1/2 in high. Each board can expand towards the adjacent gaps.
Step 11 Finish and inspect the table
- Ease exposed edges and corners, remove splinters and sand the touch surfaces. Keep bearing shoulders and tenons square.
- Apply the selected exterior finish and end-grain treatment, including accessible undersides, according to its instructions. Keep timber feet off soil and standing water.
- Check every joint, screw and bearing point. Recheck fasteners after the timber settles, and inspect periodically for movement, splitting and decay.
- Complete the joint and loading review before use. Keep the table unloaded if a joint moves or a board splits.
Check: All eight feet bear, no joint racks, and all hardware is secure without crushing the timber.
Sources
Design reference: Donald Judd, Pergola Table 23, 1982. Independent CAD interpretation, illustrations and instructions by DIYplans.org, licensed CC BY-NC 4.0. This is an unbuilt interpretation, not an authorized Judd fabrication drawing or product.