BEFORE YOU BUILD
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Instructions
Step 1 Choose and measure the lumber
- Use grade-stamped US Douglas Fir-Larch Select Structural 2x6 and 2x4, without incising. Actual sections must be 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 in and 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 in.
- Check moisture at 19% or less before assembly. Select straight boards without splits or loose knots at joints. Measure stock before cutting; do not reduce the cut lengths or finished table dimensions. The purchase allocation allows 1/8-in saw kerf and trimming, but not rejected boards.
Check: All structural 2x stock has the specified species and grade stamp, matches the stated finished section, and has no split at a planned joint. Moisture is checked before assembly.
Step 2 Cut the slats, bearers and cleats
- Cut five 2x6 tabletop slats and four 2x6 seat slats to 72 in with square ends. Cut four 2x6 upper bearers to 30 in along their full top edges and four 2x6 seat spreaders to 60 in along their full top edges. On these eight crosspieces, mark each bottom corner 3 3/16 in inward and cut opposing 30-degree end miters.
- Cut the 2x4 center cleat K1 to 30 in with square ends. Keep the blade square to the board face for these cuts.
Check: Count and label every cut part against the cut list. Slat ends are square, paired crosspieces match, and the retained full top edges measure 30 or 60 inches as listed.
Step 3 Cut four matching legs
- Start with four 36-inch 2 x 6 blanks. Each finished leg has two parallel 25-degree miters and measures 32 9/16 inches along either long edge.
- Allow a 35 1/8-inch square-ended stock envelope. Use the A-B-C-D coordinates in the cut-layout drawing on this page, mark to the nearest 1/32 inch and dry-fit.
- Flip one leg in each pair to make mirrored legs. Installed leg rise is 29-1/2 inches and sideways shift is 13 3/4 inches.
Check: All four long edges measure 32 9/16 inches and the parallel 25-degree miters match. Each end frame has one mirrored pair.
Step 4 Lay out the two end frames
- Assemble each end frame flat on a level surface. Set the outside feet 41 in apart. Set all upper bearer top edges 29-1/2 in above the ground datum and all seat spreader tops 16 in above it. Every leg is sandwiched between two 2x6 upper bearers and between two 2x6 seat spreaders. Every bolted joint clamps 4-1/2 in of wood.
- Follow the frame-layer drawing.
Check: Both frames match the layer drawing, with 41 inches across the outside feet, upper bearing edges at 29-1/2 inches, and seat bearing edges at 16 inches.
Step 5 Clamp, drill and bolt the frames
- Clamp all three wood layers together before drilling 13/32-in clearance holes square to the end-frame face. On each positive-side leg, the upper centers are 25-1/2 in above ground at 6 1/2 in from the table centerline, and 27 in high at 4 in from center.
- Mirror these across the centerline for the opposite leg.
- Each lower joint uses a rectangular four-hole grid, 2 in wide by 1-1/2 in high. Its bottom row is 12-1/2 in above ground and its top row is 14 in. The two columns are 10 5/16 and 12 5/16 in from the centerline.
- Mirror the grid for the opposite leg. Make both end frames match. Use the numerical dimensions; the printed image is not a full-size template.
- Install 24 specified 3/8 x 5-1/2-in bolts: two in each upper joint and four in each lower joint. Put one washer under every head and nut.
- Match-drill; do not pull misaligned holes together with bolts. The wood clamp is 4-1/2 in at every joint.
Check: Every matched bolt passes without forcing. Washers bear flat, the nut reaches firm contact, and at least two full threads project without leaving a sharp snag.
Step 6 Support the frames and attach the tabletop
- With a helper, stand the frames upright and clamp them to temporary supports. Lay five top slats face up with 5/8-in spacers and aligned ends.
- Set each outside upper bearer face 5-1/2 in inward from its nearest slat end. Clamp K1 flat beneath the tabletop, centered at the 36-in midpoint.
- Use the surface-screw drawing to mark two screws per slat at each outer upper bearer and two per slat into K1, 30 screws total. Outer bearer screw rows are 6-1/4 in from the slat ends.
- Predrill 7/64-in pilots, maintain 1-in penetration into the receiving wood, and use an 82-degree countersink only deep enough for a flush head. For an unthreaded shank different from 3.3274 mm, bore its portion about 7/8 of the measured shank diameter.
Check: The top is 30 inches wide, all four gaps are 5/8 inch, ends align, and K1 is flat and centered at the 36-inch midpoint.
Step 7 Install the seats and square the table
- Keep both frames supported. Install two 72-in seat slats on each side with 1/2-in spacers and ends aligned with the tabletop.
- Set outside edges 60 in apart. Each seat is 11-1/2 in wide and 17-1/2 in high.
- Fasten every seat slat at both inner and outer spreaders at both ends, with two screws at each crossing, 32 screws total. Rows are 6-1/4 and 9-1/4 in from the nearest slat end.
- Follow the surface-screw offsets across each slat and the same pilot/countersink specification as the top. Check equal diagonals and all feet on the level surface before tightening.
Check: Both 11-1/2-inch seats have 1/2-inch gaps, their outside edges are 60 inches apart, and all feet contact the level work surface.
Step 8 Fit both diagonal braces
- Start both 2x4 braces from 36-inch blanks. Transfer the narrow-edge coordinate profile across the width for a finished stock envelope of 30 3/4 inches.
- Cut parallel 35.288-degree bevels from square through the 1-1/2-inch thickness.
- Lay the braces flat with their 3-1/2-inch width across the table. Butt the upper ends against opposite sides of K1, 1-3/4 inches from the table midpoint, with their top corners against the tabletop underside at 29-1/2 inches.
- Seat the lower ends against the inside spreader faces, 26 inches from the midpoint. Each upper end extends 5/16 inch below K1 and bears across its full 1-1/2-inch side height.
- Dry-fit without forcing.
Check: Both braces bear firmly against their receivers without forcing the frame out of square. Their 3-1/2-inch faces remain flat and the upper top corners meet the tabletop underside.
Step 9 Fasten the fitted braces
- Use five specified 8d nails at each end, 20 total. Mark across each 3-1/2-in face at 3/4, 1-1/4, 1-3/4, 2-1/4 and 2-3/4 in from one side.
- Mark the row 5/6 in along the broad face from the end bevel; a 27/32-in tape mark is acceptable. Work within 1/32 in.
- At the upper ends, drill from the underside of each brace toward K1. At the lower ends, drill from the top face toward the inner spreader.
- Use a fixed 30-degree guide, within 1/2 degree, and a 3/32-in pilot bit. Aim in the lengthwise vertical plane with no sideways skew.
- Clamp the butt tight, then drill and drive the middle nail before working outward.
- Seat the entire round head with its highest edge flush to the brace face. Upper points enter the middle tabletop slat from below and must remain below the eating surface. Lower points exit the inner spreader underside.
- Cut, file or grind only the exposed metal flush with that underside, remove burrs, and coat the bare ends with the specified zinc-rich repair product. Protect the wood and follow the coating label.
Check: All four joints are tight and each has five nails at the shown face, spacing and angle. Heads are fully seated. No upper point exits the tabletop. Lower points are flush, smooth and coated.
Step 10 Finish and inspect the table
- Ease sharp edges and sand the seats and tabletop smooth. Tighten nuts to firm contact without crushing the wood. Trim or cap sharp bolt ends.
- Remove temporary supports after all joints are secure. Check for rocking, racking, splits, soft wood and loose fasteners before use, after the first outdoor moisture cycle, and periodically thereafter. Stop using the table until damaged parts or loose joints are repaired.
- Coat all faces and cut ends with an exterior finish suitable for Douglas Fir. Keep the feet out of soil and standing water, use a firm level surface, and let the wood dry between wetting. Maintain the finish and store under cover when practical.
Check: No sharp edges, proud fastener points, splits, loose joints, rocking or visible racking remain. Recheck the hardware after the first outdoor moisture cycle and periodically afterward.