BEFORE YOU BUILD
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Instructions
Step 1 Measure the stock and mark the pieces
- Use untreated cedar measuring 3/4 thick and 5 1/2 wide. Measure it before marking. Rip wider stock to 5 1/2; different thickness requires changing the floor width and fastener layout.
- Mark the six board blanks in the cut list. Their lengths total 65 1/2 in. Leave the saw kerf on the waste side of every line; a 96 in board provides over 28 in spare after seven 1/8 in kerfs and 1 in end trim.
- Label the inside face and front edge of each side. The two side blanks are the same handed slope once installed.
- Keep rough faces toward the chamber.
Check: Stock is 3/4 x 5 1/2 and every blank fits without using a knot or split at a screw or perch hole.
Step 2 Cut the panels and roof bevels
- Cut the back 17 long and the front 10 at its long top edge. Cut two side blanks 12 long.
- On each side, mark 10 at the front edge and 12 at the rear, then join the marks and cut the slope.
- Bevel the front top to the 19.98-degree roof slope, a 2 in rise over a 5 1/2 in run; it drops 1/4 in across the 3/4 thickness toward the outside face.
- Test the fit with a side before fastening.
- Start the roof with a 9 in blank to allow for both bevel cuts; finish it 8 1/2 along its underside. Bevel its rear edge 19.98 degrees so it meets the vertical back. The roof underside bears on the fixed side and front; the front overhang is about 1 3/4.
- Cut the floor 4 wide by 5 1/2 deep. Clip each corner 3/8 in both directions. The 4 in dimension fits between the sides; the 5 1/2 dimension runs front to back.
Check: Dry-fitted front, fixed side and roof meet without forcing the slope, and the floor fits between the sides.
Step 3 Drill the entrance, perch sockets and mounting holes
- Clamp the front to a sacrificial backing board. Bore a 2 in entrance centered 2 3/4 from either edge and 8 above the bottom.
- Ease splinters without polishing the rough inside face. Do not add an outside perch.
- On the fixed side only, mark the six socket centers shown in the hole drawing. Distances are from its front edge and bottom.
- Drill 1/4 diameter blind holes 1/2 deep with a depth stop; do not drill through.
- Drill two 5/16 clearance holes on the backboard centerline, 1 and 16 above its lower end. They are outside the chamber.
- Use pilot-hole sizes recommended for the mounting screws in the support.
Check: Entrance is clear, each socket leaves 1/4 wood behind it, and both mounting holes lie outside the enclosed chamber.
Step 4 Fit and glue the perches
- Cut six dowels to 4 1/4 long. Use 1/4 diameter dowel to match the holes. Lightly roughen the dowels with coarse sandpaper and remove dust.
- Dry-fit each perch 1/2 into its socket. It should project 3 3/4 and leave 1/4 clearance to the closed side door.
- Keep this clearance so the door can open.
- Apply a small amount of exterior wood glue in each socket, seat the dowels, and wipe away squeeze-out. Let the glue fully cure before assembly or mounting.
Check: Six firm perches project 3 3/4; none touches the door or leaves an exposed sharp edge.
Step 5 Assemble the fixed side, floor, back and front
- Mark a line 2 above the backboard lower end for the underside of the floor and the bottom of the side/front.
- Set the fixed side against the back, flush to its left edge. The 12 in side edge meets the back.
- Drill clearance holes through the outer board and pilot holes in the receiving wood. Start with about 9/64 clearance and 3/32 pilot for #6 screws in cedar, then test scrap and follow the screw maker. Countersink fixed heads flush; do not split the edges.
- Use three screws through the back into the fixed side, centered 3/8 from its left edge, at heights 2, 5 and 9 above the floor underside. Add two through the back into the floor at x=1 1/2 and 4, height 3/8. Add two through the fixed side into the floor, 1 1/2 and 4 from the side front edge, height 3/8.
- Fit the front over the side and floor ends, bottom flush with the floor underside. Repeat the three side screws and two floor screws through the front at the same x and height marks. This uses 12 fixed screws.
- Keep the right side open.
Check: The chamber is square, the floor is secure, and all four drainage corners remain open.
Step 6 Trim and pivot the opening side
- Trim the door blank 1/32 off each front/rear edge, 1/16 off its bottom, and 1/8 below the matching top slope.
- Sand the upper corners round enough to clear the roof during rotation.
- Hold the door closed, outside face flush with the box right side. Mark a common pivot axis through front and back at x=5 1/8 across the box and 9 above floor underside. On the back, that height is 11 above its lower end.
- Clamp before drilling.
- Drill clearance holes through front/back and pilot holes into the door ends on this axis. Install one 1 1/4 screw from each end without clamping the door tight. The side bottom must swing out. Do not screw the floor or roof into the door.
Check: The side rotates freely outward to 90 degrees without striking a perch, floor or neighboring panel; both pivot screws stay engaged.
Step 7 Attach the roof and secure the door
- Set the roof against the back. Use two screws down into the fixed-side top, 1 1/2 and 4 from its front edge, and two down into the front top at x=1 1/2 and 4.
- Place entries over the center of each receiving edge: 3/8 from the fixed-side outside face, and 3/8 behind the front outside face.
- Drill and drive vertically, parallel to the front and back, rather than perpendicular to the sloping roof. Keep the screw tips inside the boards. These four bring the fixed screw count to 16.
- Dry-fit the roof before driving the last screws. Check that the door still opens to 90 degrees under the roof. The rear bevel should close against the back without a water-catching gap.
- Place one small latch nail in the front near the door edge and one in the side near the front, both about 2 above floor underside.
- Use 3/4 in latch nails driven no more than 1/2 in, with points buried inside the wood. Drill small pilots and leave just enough head proud for the wire. Loop the wire around the heads so it cannot release accidentally.
- Fold sharp ends flat outside.
Check: There are 16 fixed screws and 2 pivots, the roof is seated, and the latch holds the door closed but releases for cleaning.
Step 8 Mount and inspect the roost box
- Install only after the glue has cured. Choose a sheltered location with a clear flight path, away from prevailing wind and rain, and with safe access for maintenance. This high-entrance box provides roosting shelter; it is not a species-specific nest box.
- For an existing sound wood post, pilot-drill at the two backboard mounting holes, 15 apart. Fit the two #10 x 2 1/2 screws with washers and at least 1 1/2 embedment into sound wood. Do not crush the cedar by overtightening.
- Other supports need appropriate anchors and safe access chosen for that support. Keep wire or hardware clear of birds and account for tree growth if using a tree attachment. No post, footing, ladder setup or support capacity is specified by this box plan.
Check: The box cannot rock or rotate, the door stays shut, and no sharp fastener or wire projects into the chamber.
Step 9 Clean and maintain the box
- Inspect when the box is unoccupied. Release the latch, swing the side out, remove old debris, and brush the floor and perches.
- Keep the drainage corners open. Let wet wood dry fully before closing.
- Check perch security, split wood, loose mounting screws and the latch at least seasonally and after severe weather. Repair defects before leaving the box available to birds.
- Leave the interior and perches untreated. Observe whether local birds use it and keep it maintained.
Check: The dry box closes securely with clean perches and unobstructed drainage.
Sources
Based on dimensions in Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife, Roost Box for Songbirds. DIY Plans drew the CAD and illustrations and wrote these instructions. The compact board size, shorter perches, hole locations and door clearances are documented adaptations. WDFW has not reviewed or endorsed this package.