Gambrel shed

• Mark a 120 by 144-inch rectangle for the outside of the floor framing. Label the door end as front.
• Use the front-left outside floor corner as the datum. Measure X across the door wall, Y toward the rear and Z upward from the finished floor.
• Compare both diagonals and adjust the rectangle until they match. Keep the corners marked while placing the foundation.
• Mark skid centerlines at 5 1/4, 41 3/4, 78 1/4 and 114 3/4 inches from the left floor edge.

Check: All three skid center spacings are 36 1/2 inches; the floor footprint is square.

• Keep each of the four treated 4x4 skids and both treated 2x6 side rims as one continuous 144-inch board.
• Cut ten treated 2x6 joists to 117 inches and eight treated 2x6 bearing blocks to 5 1/2 inches.
• Lay the two side rims side by side and mark joist centerlines at 3/4, 16, 32, 48, 64, 80, 96, 112, 128 and 143 1/4 inches from the front end.
• Mark each board with its cut-list part number and crown direction. Treat cut ends as required by the preservative supplier.

Check: Matching marks on both bare rims locate every joist before assembly.

• Place the four continuous 12-foot treated 4x4s on the prepared supports, running front to rear.
• Align their front ends with the front floor datum and their centers with the four marked lines.
• Check 36 1/2 inches between neighboring centers, or 33 inches clear between neighboring skid faces.
• Secure the skids using the foundation anchorage detail and recheck level along and across all four.

Check: The outer skid faces lie at 3 1/2 and 116 1/2 inches from the left floor edge.

• Position the two 144-inch side rims along the outside floor edges.
• Fit a 117-inch joist between them at each end, with its outside face flush with the ends of the rims.
• Hold the rim and joist top edges in one plane and connect the corners using the framing schedule.

Check: The outside frame measures 120 by 144 inches.

• Fit the eight remaining 117-inch joists between the side rims at the marked 16 through 128-inch centerlines.
• Set each crown up and bring its top edge flush with the perimeter framing.
• Seat every joist on all four skids and connect its ends with the specified fasteners or connectors.

Check: All ten joists bear on four skids, giving 40 joist-to-skid contacts.

• Fit four of the 5 1/2-inch blocks beside each side rim at the loft-support location shown in the floor drawing.
• Keep their tops flush with the joists and their bottoms seated on the outer skids.
• Use the specified connections to transfer the wall-support load through these blocks.
• Fit all eight blocks. Add support beneath floor seams only if the selected T&G product requires it.

Check: Both wall-supported beam ends have their four floor bearing blocks in place.

• Use five 23/32-inch T&G sheets with the full 48-inch face width required by this layout. Check the actual product face width, profile engagement and thickness before cutting.
• Follow the six-panel layout and factory-edge schedule. Crosscut two 48 by 47 7/8-inch panels from one sheet; use two whole-width sheets for the 95 7/8-inch panels.
• Rip each of the two 23 3/4-inch-wide right-edge panels from a separate sheet, measuring from the factory groove. Keep both groove edges intact.
• Run the panel strength direction front to rear, across the floor joists. Dry-fit profile engagement and required gaps; revise the layout if the selected product requires different dimensions.

Check: Six panels come from five sheets, with the correct factory tongue or groove at every unsupported long-edge joint.

• Place the 48 by 95 7/8-inch panel in the front-left position, with its factory tongue facing right.
• Place the 48 by 47 7/8-inch panel behind it. Center their cross joint over the joist at 96 inches from the front.
• Maintain the selected product gaps. The drawn cross joint is 1/8 inch and the drawn front and rear body setbacks are 1/16 inch.
• Fasten the panels to the joists using the panel schedule, applying subfloor adhesive only if required by the selected system.

Check: The left strip is straight and its factory tongues remain available for the middle strip.

• Place the 48 by 47 7/8-inch panel at the front and the 48 by 95 7/8-inch panel behind it.
• Engage the left grooves with the first strip without damaging or forcing the profiles.
• Center this strip’s cross joint over the 48-inch joist, staggering it from the left strip’s joint.
• Maintain the required gaps and fasten the panels with their right factory tongues exposed.

Check: The middle strip is joined to the first strip and its cross joint is supported.

• Engage the two 23 3/4-inch-wide panels with the middle strip, keeping their intact factory grooves toward the left.
• Place the 95 7/8-inch panel at the front and the 47 7/8-inch panel behind it, with the cross joint over the 96-inch joist.
• Trim only the outside perimeter edge if the selected product and field measurement require it.
• Complete the floor fastening and check for high edges, missed joists and damaged T&G profiles before framing the walls.

Check: The six fitted floor pieces cover the 120 by 144-inch frame.

• Keep the side-wall bottom and first top plates as continuous 144-inch boards. Cut the side cap plates to 137 inches and keep them aside.
• Cut the regular and corner-backing studs to 79 1/2 inches. Mark each bare plate from the front floor datum using the wall layout.
• At each side-wall loft seat, mark the front king stud at Y 91 to 92 1/2 inches, two jack studs at Y 92 1/2 to 95 1/2 inches, and the adjacent regular stud at Y 95 1/2 to 97 inches.
• Cut the four loft jack studs to 71 1/4 inches. Keep the rear and front wall members labeled separately from the side-wall stock.

Check: The wall layout includes corner backing and the two beam seats before assembly.

• Build the left wall flat on a clear platform using its bottom plate, first top plate and twelve full-height studs, including the corner backing.
• Install the extra full-height king stud and the two 71 1/4-inch jack studs at the loft seat. Keep the beam pocket open above the jacks.
• Square the frame and fasten it using the wall schedule. Leave the second top plate off.
• Use enough helpers and the planned lifting method to raise the wall onto the left floor edge. Plumb, secure and temporarily brace it before releasing it.

Check: The wall is plumb and braced, and its loft jacks end 72 3/4 inches above the floor.

• Build the matching right wall with its continuous plates, twelve full-height studs, corner backing and three additional loft-seat members.
• Measure the loft jack positions from the same front datum used for the left wall.
• Square and connect the frame, then raise it onto the right floor edge with helpers.
• Plumb, secure and brace the wall. Check that the two beam seats face one another at the same height.

Check: Both side walls are braced, parallel and ready to receive the end walls.

• Build the rear wall with 113-inch bottom and first top plates and nine 79 1/2-inch studs.
• Use the rear-wall drawing for stud marks; measure X from the left floor edge when checking its installed position.
• Raise the wall between the two side walls, flush with the rear floor edge.
• Plumb and connect the corners, then brace the wall. Keep the 120-inch cap plate aside.

Check: The rear wall fits between the side walls without forcing their alignment.

• Mark the 64-inch opening from X 28 to X 92 inches on the bare front-wall layout.
• Cut two 24 1/2-inch bottom-plate pieces, one 113-inch first top plate and the scheduled full-height, jack and cripple studs.
• Prepare two 67-inch 2x6 header plies and the 67 by 5 1/2-inch, 1/2-inch plywood spacer, subject to the reviewed header design.
• Keep the opening clear from the finished floor to the header underside at 72 inches. Do not carry a permanent bottom plate across the doorway.

Check: The labeled parts preserve a 64 by 72-inch rough opening.

• Build the front frame flat, with full-height king studs beside the opening and the 70 1/2-inch jack studs below the header.
• Assemble the reviewed two-ply header with its 1/2-inch spacer. Seat it on both jacks and install the six short cripples above it.
• Square the frame while checking the 64 by 72-inch opening. Use temporary handling bracing as needed to hold the two bottom-plate sections in position.
• Raise the wall with helpers, connect it between the side walls and brace it plumb. Keep the doorway clear and leave the cap plate off until the corners are checked.

Check: The header has its specified bearing and the door opening remains square.

• Recheck wall plumb, corner connections and the two floor diagonals before adding the cap plates.
• Fit the two 137-inch side cap plates between the end-wall caps.
• Fit the 120-inch front and rear cap plates across the full shed width, lapping over the side-wall plates at the corners.
• Connect the laps and plates using the wall schedule. Keep temporary bracing until the specified permanent bracing replaces it.

Check: All wall tops finish at 84 inches and the cap-plate laps tie the four walls together.

• Confirm the reviewed beam species, grade, two-ply fastening and wall-seat connections before cutting the loft stock.
• Use two continuous 120-inch 2x8 beam plies, a 113-inch 2x6 rear ledger and nine 2x6 joists.
• Treat the 44 7/8-inch joist length as dependent on the selected front hanger. The model leaves a 1/8-inch gap to the beam and retains 1 1/2-inch rear ledger bearing.
• Mark joist centers at X 4 1/4, 16, 32, 48, 64, 80, 96, 112 and 115 3/4 inches. Plan access and edge protection before the loft is used.

Check: The connector selection agrees with the beam, joist lengths and wall bearing details.

• Join the two continuous 2x8 plies using the reviewed load-sharing and fastening detail.
• Keep the side-wall pockets open and provide clear access outside the left wall. With helpers and suitable temporary supports, feed the beam horizontally through the left pocket toward the right seat.
• Slide the beam into position until each end bears across the full 3 1/2-inch wall width on its two jack studs. Keep its front face at Y 92 1/2 inches and rear face at Y 95 1/2 inches.
• Secure the beam and verify its top at 80 inches above the floor. Leave the area beneath the loft clear of vertical posts.

Check: The beam bears on both wall seats and its underside is 72 3/4 inches above the floor.

• Position the 113-inch 2x6 ledger against the inside rear-wall studs, between the side walls.
• Set its top at 74 1/2 inches above the finished floor and check it level.
• Attach it to the wall studs using the reviewed structural connection schedule. Do not substitute a generic screw pattern.
• Check the rear wall and ledger connections before placing joists.

Check: The ledger provides the planned 1 1/2-inch bearing beneath the rear joist ends.

• Fit the selected joist hangers or reviewed connections to the rear face of the loft beam at the marked centers.
• Set the nine joists crown up, with their front ends seated in the connectors and their rear ends bearing on the ledger.
• Install every required connector fastener and any specified restraint or panel-edge support before covering the framing.
• Check that the joist tops align with the beam top at 80 inches. Keep the loft unloaded.

Check: Each joist has a completed front connection and full rear bearing; no joist is left supported by end nails alone.

• Cut the two 3/4-inch panels to the sheet layout, keeping their strength direction across the shed width and perpendicular to the joists.
• Fit the larger panel at the left and the smaller panel at the right, with the 1/8-inch drawn cross joint over the joist at X 96 inches.
• Check all perimeter and joint support, then fasten using the selected panel schedule.
• Keep the loft unused until its connections, permitted load, access and required edge protection are complete. Do not treat the deck as a roof-framing work platform without a suitable work plan.

Check: The deck measures 113 by 48 inches overall and its finished top is 80 3/4 inches above the floor.

• Mark a full-size gambrel profile or make a stable assembly jig from the exact profile drawings.
• Start the lower rafters from 39 7/8-inch rough blanks and the upper rafters from 45 11/16-inch rough blanks. These allowances exceed the finished profile lengths; do not use the blank length as a finished long-point dimension.
• Cut one matched set of four rafters and check the joints against the full-size profile before repeating it.
• Prepare 28 rafters for seven outer stations and eight additional rafters for the inner front and rear frames. Cut the eight 1/2-inch spacer profiles with their joint-plate reliefs.

Check: The four-rafter template spans 120 inches and matches the exact knee and ridge profiles.

• Assemble the four outer rafters on the checked jig using the designed joints.
• Complete the cavity-side joint connections, fit the four relieved 1/2-inch plywood spacers and add the matching inner four-rafter frame in the designed assembly order.
• Check the paired frame’s total thickness of 3 1/2 inches and its clear outside and inside faces.
• Lift the complete assembly with the planned equipment and helpers. Set its outside face at the front wall line, plumb it and secure the designed temporary and permanent restraints before release.

Check: The front pair occupies Y 0 through 3 1/2 inches, with its inside face flush with the future gable infill.

• Assemble another four-rafter frame on the jig, completing the designed joints on both faces.
• Mark its centerline 24 inches from the front floor edge on both wall caps.
• Lift the frame into place, check its bearing and plumb it against the front frame.
• Fit the specified wall ties, temporary spacing and diagonal bracing before releasing the frame.

Check: The first interior frame is secured at the 24-inch centerline without relying on loose spacers for bracing.

• Assemble the four remaining interior frames to the same checked jig and connection detail.
• Set their centers at 48, 72, 96 and 120 inches from the front floor edge.
• Lift and brace one complete frame at a time. Keep the knees, ridge and wall bearing lines aligned.
• Complete the specified ties and erection bracing as each frame is placed.

Check: All five interior frames are aligned at their scheduled centers and remain braced.

• Build the rear paired frame with its outer four rafters, cavity joint connections, relieved spacers and inner four rafters.
• Check the full 3 1/2-inch thickness before lifting it.
• Set its rear outside face flush with the rear wall line at Y 144 inches. Its inner face belongs at Y 140 1/2 inches.
• Plumb, tie and brace the frame, then check the complete roof for straight ridge and knee lines.

Check: Both end pairs and all five interior frames are secured before gable infill or roof panels are added.

• Mark the seven front and seven rear 2x4 infill studs using the individual cut profiles.
• Start with the scheduled rough blank lengths and cut each top to the exact roof-underside shape.
• Keep the 3 1/2-inch stud depth running front to rear, perpendicular to the flat rafter faces.
• Label each position from left to right. The off-center stud layout gives different heights on the two sides; do not substitute mirrored cuts.

Check: Fourteen labeled studs fit their individual positions between the wall caps and roof profile.

• Set the seven front infill studs on the front cap plate at X 16, 32, 48, 64, 80, 96 and 112-inch centers.
• Keep their full 3 1/2-inch depth between Y 0 and 3 1/2 inches.
• Fit their profiled tops under the paired roof members and attach them using the gable framing detail.
• Check the inner faces against the added inner rafters. Keep the future lining plane clear.

Check: The infill remains perpendicular and its inside face aligns with the inner end frame.

• Set the seven rear studs at the same X centerlines, using their labeled profiles.
• Keep their depth between Y 140 1/2 and 144 inches and their bottoms on the rear cap plate.
• Connect the infill and check its inside face flush with the rear inner rafters.
• Resolve roof ventilation, insulation depth, vapor control and lining attachment before adding any interior insulation or lining; those layers are not specified here.

Check: The rear end has the same continuous inside framing plane as the front end.

• Cut the three 84-inch-high left-wall T1-11 panels to the sheet layout, with vertical face orientation as specified by the panel product.
• Start at the front and align the two vertical joints with the studs at Y 48 and 96 inches.
• Keep the required joint gaps, bottom clearance and edge support while the wall remains plumb and braced.
• Fasten each panel using the wall-panel schedule and protect the cut edges.

Check: The left wall panels are fully fastened with supported joints and the specified clearances.

• Fit the three right-wall T1-11 panels in front-to-rear order, using the matching sheet widths.
• Align the joints at Y 48 and 96 inches and check the selected panel gaps before fastening.
• Keep the wall plumb and preserve the required clearance above grade and adjacent surfaces.

Check: The right wall has the same panel support and joint spacing as the left wall.

• Fit the two wider rear T1-11 panels from the left, followed by the narrow right panel.
• Align the panel joints at X 48 and 96 inches and keep their top edges at the 84-inch wall line.
• Fasten using the panel schedule without closing the required joints.

Check: The rear wall enclosure ends at a straight horizontal gable joint.

• Transfer the installed 64 by 72-inch door opening to the three front panels using the shaped-panel drawings.
• Support each blank before cutting the opening portions. Check the cutout against the actual header and jamb locations.
• Fit and fasten the panels around the opening, keeping product clearances and the door flashing intact.
• Keep the full door opening clear before measuring for the leaves.

Check: The opening remains square and unobstructed, with solid backing at the panel edges.

• Lay out the six 5/8-inch T1-11 gable-panel blanks on the scheduled sheets, preserving the specified face orientation.
• Transfer each exact top profile from its drawing, then check it against the installed roof before cutting.
• Label the three front and three rear pieces separately and seal the cut edges as required.
• Preserve the vertical panel-joint gaps and the selected weather detail at the horizontal wall joint.

Check: Each shaped gable panel matches its own position; the narrow and wide profiles are not interchangeable.

• Fit the three front gable panels from left to right above the 84-inch wall line.
• Check their joints over the gable framing and their roof-edge clearances before fastening.
• Complete the specified horizontal-joint flashing while access remains open.

Check: The front gable panels follow the roof profile and their horizontal joint is ready for seam trim.

• Fit the three rear gable panels to their labeled positions and check the profile against the roof.
• Keep the required joint gaps and fasten to the intended framing.
• Complete the rear horizontal-joint weather detail and the specified permanent wall bracing before removing any temporary brace it replaces.

Check: Both gables are enclosed and the permanent wall system is connected.

• Prepare eight 1/2-inch roof panels from the sheet layout, keeping their strength direction front to rear across the roof frames.
• Use rough slope-width blanks of 39 7/8 inches for the four lower-facet panels and 45 11/16 inches for the four upper-facet panels. Finish each to its exact cut profile.
• Cut the front-to-rear panel length to 75 15/16 inches. Each facet has two panels with a 1/8-inch drawn joint over the frame at Y 72 inches.
• Confirm the selected panel span rating, edge support, fastening and 4-inch gable overhang detail before installation.

Check: The eight panels are labeled by facet and front or rear position, with strength arrows retained.

• Use the planned work platforms and roof access. Recheck roof bracing before placing panels.
• Fit the front and rear panels on the left lower facet, with 4-inch projections beyond both gable framing faces.
• Fit the matching two panels on the right lower facet. Maintain the selected edge gaps and support details.
• Fasten to the roof frames using the panel schedule while keeping the knee lines straight.

Check: The four lower panels have supported joints and consistent gable projections.

• Fit the two upper-left panels and the two upper-right panels using the matching strength directions and gable projections.
• Maintain the required panel gaps at the middle station, knees and ridge.
• Install specified panel-edge support and fasten every supporting frame.
• Complete any concealed permanent roof restraint and connection work before access is lost.

Check: All four facets match the knee and ridge profiles without forced joints.

• Use the roofing manufacturer's instructions for laps, fasteners, exposure and edge details throughout the roofing steps.
• Fit drip edge along the two long eaves before the underlayment where required by the selected roof system.
• Choose an eave profile whose vertical return clears the 5/8-inch T1-11 face while its upper flange remains seated on the roof deck. Keep its lower edge free to drain.
• Resolve the four eave and corner-trim terminations before fastening the metal. Follow the selected flashing detail and preserve clearance for the 84-inch corner boards installed in step 60.
• Cover the 152-inch roof length with each run. Allow for the specified laps and end details when cutting stock.

Check: Both eaves have continuous outward-draining edge metal.

• Install any required eave membrane, then apply underlayment across all four facets using the selected system’s order.
• Work from low to high with upper courses shedding onto lower courses. Use the required laps and temporary or permanent fasteners.
• Complete the specified knee and ridge weather-layer details and preserve designed ventilation openings.

Check: Every facet and both pitch changes have the required continuous weather protection.

• Install edge metal along the four slopes at each gable, following the roofing system’s order relative to the underlayment.
• Miter or form the knee and ridge junctions using the selected metal detail.
• Lap successive stock pieces and terminate them at the eaves as specified so water drains onto the eave edge.

Check: Both gable roof edges have continuous metal with finished knee and ridge junctions.

• Install the selected starter course along each eave using the product’s edge and rake details.
• Lay the lower-facet field shingles from eave toward knee, following the specified exposure, stagger and nail pattern.
• Check the drawn eight courses and 5-inch exposure against the selected shingle product; adjust the course layout if needed.
• Finish the last lower course in the position required to receive the knee-flashing apron.

Check: Both lower facets are shingled and ready for the transition flashing.

• Fit the selected transition flashing along each change in roof pitch.
• Place its lower apron above the completed lower shingles and its upper flange where the upper shingles will cover it.
• Form the correct bend for the actual roof pitches and complete the prescribed side laps and rake terminations.
• Follow the flashing detail for fastening and its connection to the membrane.

Check: Each knee sheds from the upper roof over the flashing and onto the lower shingles.

• Start the upper courses at each knee using the selected transition detail, covering the flashing’s upper flange.
• Work toward the ridge with the required exposure, joint offset and fasteners.
• Check the drawn ten courses against the selected roofing product and adjust the layout if needed.
• Preserve the designed ridge closure or vent space and finish the rake edges as specified.

Check: Both upper facets shed onto the knee flashings without leaving an exposed upper flange.

• Install the selected ridge closure and any designed ridge ventilation before the caps.
• Lay the ridge-cap units with the specified exposure, laps, fasteners and final closure detail.
• Inspect all eaves, rakes, knees and ridge terminations before removing roof access equipment.

Check: The selected roof system is complete, including its starter, laps, flashings and ridge details.

• Measure the finished opening before cutting the two door leaves to 31 11/16 × 71 5/8 in.
• Cut two 5/8-inch T1-11 skins from separate sheets with their face grooves vertical. Seal all cut edges as required.
• For each leaf, cut two full-height 71 5/8-inch exterior 2x4 stiles and three 24 11/16-inch rails that fit between them.
• Resolve the door fastening, skin bracing and sag resistance with the selected hinges before assembling the leaves. This layout has no diagonal braces.

Check: The labeled leaf parts and selected hardware preserve the planned opening clearances.

• Fit the two 72-inch exterior 2x4 jamb pieces along the opening sides and the 71-inch 2x4 head above them.
• Keep the outer faces aligned with the future exterior door-frame faces.
• Fasten into the specified solid backing and integrate the head flashing over the opening trim.
• Recheck a clear 64 by 72-inch opening and mark the selected hinge positions.

Check: The jambs are plumb, the head is level and the hinge backing is ready.

• Lay the left skin on a flat supported surface. Fit the two full-height stiles and three rails on its exterior face, using the door drawing for rail positions.
• Clamp the assembly square and fasten the skin and framing with the resolved door connection detail.
• Fit the selected hinges and support the completed leaf on blocks while attaching it to the jamb backing.
• Set a 1/8-inch hinge-side gap, 1/8-inch top gap and 1/4-inch bottom gap. Check the hinge travel before removing the supports.

Check: The left leaf is supported by its selected hinges and holds its clearances without sagging.

• Assemble the right leaf with its skin, two exterior stiles and three rails, keeping the completed leaf square.
• Attach the selected hinges, support the leaf and fasten it to the right jamb backing.
• Set the same 1/8-inch side and top gaps and 1/4-inch bottom gap, with 3/8 inch between the closed leaves.
• Swing each leaf through its intended travel and correct rubbing or sag before fitting the meeting strip.

Check: Both leaves swing and close with an even 3/8-inch meeting gap.

• Close and align both leaves, then fit the 71 5/8-inch 1x2 meeting strip over the center gap.
• Attach it to the designated active leaf only, using the selected door arrangement and fasteners.
• Keep its position compatible with the leaf-opening order, latch and any selected weather seals.
• Recheck both leaves through their intended travel without forcing the strip against the opposite frame.

Check: The strip covers the meeting gap and the doors operate in the intended order.

• Install the selected pull and latch into their required solid backing.
• Fit the fixed-leaf bolts, receivers, stops and weather seals required by the selected hardware detail.
• Operate the latch and any bolts with the doors open and closed, then verify that both leaves reopen freely.
• Check the hardware manufacturer’s required fasteners and edge distances.

Check: The doors close, secure and reopen without binding or pulling the leaves out of square.

• Measure the finished siding and cut eight 84-inch 1x4 corner boards to fit.
• Fit each front or rear corner board over the 3/4-inch edge of its side return. Seat both boards against the T1-11 faces; use the corner detail to close the return without a gap.
• Keep the required bottom clearance and seal or prime cut ends before fastening.
• Fasten into the intended backing without closing required siding joints or drainage paths.

Check: All four wall corners are covered with supported trim and finished cut ends.

• Cut one continuous 115 3/4-inch 1x4 from each of two 10-foot boards.
• Fit one board across the front and one across the rear between the existing corner trims.
• Center each board on the panel joint 84 in above the floor, with its lower edge at 82 1/4 in and upper edge at 85 3/4 in.
• Preserve the selected joint flashing and drainage detail behind the trim, then fasten into the specified backing and finish the cut ends.

Check: Two continuous boards conceal the front and rear horizontal panel joints without replacing their flashing.