Gambrel shed

• Mark a 144 by 240-inch rectangle for the outside floor edges. Label the door end front.
• Set the front-left floor corner as the datum. Measure X across the door wall, Y toward the rear and Z upward from the finished main floor.
• Compare the two diagonals and adjust until they match.
• Mark runner centerlines at X = 5 1/4, 49 3/4, 94 1/4, 138 3/4 inches. Use the foundation drawing for support pads and any supported joints.

Check: All pieces are marked with their matching cut-list IDs and reference edges.

• 2 treated foundation runner: 4x4 treated, 192 in long, actual section 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 2 treated foundation runner: 4x4 treated, 48 in long, actual section 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 treated foundation runner: 4x4 treated, 192 in long, actual section 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 treated foundation runner: 4x4 treated, 48 in long, actual section 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 treated foundation runner: 4x4 treated, 192 in long, actual section 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 treated foundation runner: 4x4 treated, 48 in long, actual section 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• Place the runners front to rear on centerlines X = 5 1/4, 49 3/4, 94 1/4, 138 3/4 inches.
• Keep each scheduled full-length piece continuous. Where the drawing divides a runner, center its joint over the specified foundation support.
• Complete the foundation anchorage detail and recheck level.

Check: Each runner is continuously supported at the specified bearing points and anchored.

• 1 treated side floor rim: 2x6 treated, 192 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in.
• 1 treated side floor rim: 2x6 treated, 48 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in.
• 1 treated side floor rim: 2x6 treated, 192 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in.
• 1 treated side floor rim: 2x6 treated, 48 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in.
• 1 treated floor joist: 2x6 treated, 141 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in.
• 11 treated floor joist: 2x6 treated, 141 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in.
• 1 treated floor joist: 2x6 treated, 141 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in.
• 1 treated floor joist: 2x6 treated, 141 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in.
• 2 treated floor joist: 2x6 treated, 141 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in.
• 2 loft wall bearing block: 2x6 treated, 5 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in.
• Use the matching cut list for the remaining distinct sizes.
• Mark joist centerlines at Y = 3/4, 16, 32, 48, 64, 80, 96, 112, 128, 144, 160, 176, 192, 208, 224, 239 1/4 inches from the front datum on both bare side rims.
• Mark bearing-block locations from the floor drawing. Preserve these loft reaction blocks; do not add the removed seam-only grid.
• Keep scheduled continuous pieces whole and treat cut ends according to the preservative supplier.

Check: All pieces are marked with their matching cut-list IDs and reference edges.

• Align the side rims along the outside floor edges and fit the front and rear joists between them.
• Keep the outside dimensions 144 by 240 inches and bring all top edges into one plane.
• Fasten the corners using the framing schedule. Keep any scheduled rim joint over its specified support.

Check: The perimeter is rectangular and every scheduled rim joint has its required bearing.

• Set the remaining joists on the marked centerlines Y = 16, 32, 48, 64, 80, 96, 112, 128, 144, 160, 176, 192, 208, 224 inches.
• Place crowns upward, align top edges with the rims and seat the joists on the runners.
• Connect joist ends and runner crossings using the selected framing and anchorage details.

Check: Every joist is seated at its runner crossings and flush with the floor perimeter.

• 2 loft wall bearing block: 2x6 treated, 5 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in.
• 6 loft wall bearing block: 2x6 treated, 5 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in.
• Fit the blocks at the wall-supported loft beam reactions shown in the drawing.
• Keep block tops flush with the joists and complete their specified attachment before covering the floor.

Check: The wall reactions have a continuous path through the retained floor blocking to the outer runner lines.

• Prepare the 9 floor panels using the exact sheet allocation and factory-edge schedule.
• Check the selected product against the modeled 23/32-inch thickness and required usable face width.
• Run the panel strength direction front to rear, perpendicular to the floor joists. Retain each specified factory tongue and groove.
• Mark short-end cuts from the supported joint positions. Do not substitute square edges at unsupported long joints.

Check: All pieces are marked with their matching cut-list IDs and reference edges.

• Start this strip at X = 0 inches from the left floor datum.
• 2 t&g floor panel: 23/32 T&G plywood, full face, 95 7/8 in long, actual section 23/32 x 48 in.
• 1 t&g floor panel: 23/32 T&G plywood, full face, 47 7/8 in long, actual section 23/32 x 48 in.
• Set the panels in the positions shown; engage the retained factory profiles without forcing them.
• Maintain the selected product gaps, support the short-end joints on joists and fasten using its panel schedule.

Check: The strip lies flat; its specified factory edges and short-end supports remain intact.

• Start this strip at X = 48 1/8 inches from the left floor datum.
• 1 t&g floor panel: 23/32 T&G plywood, full face, 47 7/8 in long, actual section 23/32 x 48 in.
• 2 t&g floor panel: 23/32 T&G plywood, full face, 95 7/8 in long, actual section 23/32 x 48 in.
• Set the panels in the positions shown; engage the retained factory profiles without forcing them.
• Maintain the selected product gaps, support the short-end joints on joists and fasten using its panel schedule.

Check: The strip lies flat; its specified factory edges and short-end supports remain intact.

• Start this strip at X = 96 1/4 inches from the left floor datum.
• 2 t&g floor panel: 23/32 T&G plywood, full face, 95 7/8 in long, actual section 23/32 x 47 3/4 in.
• 1 t&g floor panel: 23/32 T&G plywood, full face, 47 7/8 in long, actual section 23/32 x 47 3/4 in.
• Set the panels in the positions shown; engage the retained factory profiles without forcing them.
• Maintain the selected product gaps, support the short-end joints on joists and fasten using its panel schedule.

Check: The strip lies flat; its specified factory edges and short-end supports remain intact.

• 1 left wall stud: 2x4, 79 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 left wall corner backing stud: 2x4, 79 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 11 left wall stud: 2x4, 79 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 left wall stud: 2x4, 79 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 left wall stud: 2x4, 79 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 left wall stud: 2x4, 79 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 left wall corner backing stud: 2x4, 79 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 left wall bottom plate: 2x4, 192 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 left wall bottom plate: 2x4, 48 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 left wall first top plate: 2x4, 192 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• Use the matching cut list for the remaining distinct sizes.
• Lay the matching first-layer plates side by side and transfer the member stations from the wall drawing.
• Mark both stud edges and label opening, corner-backing and loft-seat members before fastening.
• Keep second top plates aside until all four walls are standing.

Check: All pieces are marked with their matching cut-list IDs and reference edges.

• Assemble the labeled plates and studs flat on a supported work surface; align the reference edges and square the frame.
• Fit the corner backing and any wall-contained loft king and jack studs at their drawing positions. Keep the beam pockets open above the jacks.
• Fasten using the wall connection schedule, then use the planned lifting method and enough helpers to raise the wall.
• Plumb, anchor and temporarily brace the wall before releasing it.

Check: The left wall is plumb, anchored and braced; its opening and support pockets match the drawing.

• 1 right wall stud: 2x4, 79 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 right wall corner backing stud: 2x4, 79 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 11 right wall stud: 2x4, 79 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 right wall stud: 2x4, 79 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 right wall stud: 2x4, 79 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 right wall stud: 2x4, 79 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 right wall corner backing stud: 2x4, 79 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 right wall bottom plate: 2x4, 192 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 right wall bottom plate: 2x4, 48 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 right wall first top plate: 2x4, 192 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• Use the matching cut list for the remaining distinct sizes.
• Lay the matching first-layer plates side by side and transfer the member stations from the wall drawing.
• Mark both stud edges and label opening, corner-backing and loft-seat members before fastening.
• Keep second top plates aside until all four walls are standing.

Check: All pieces are marked with their matching cut-list IDs and reference edges.

• Assemble the labeled plates and studs flat on a supported work surface; align the reference edges and square the frame.
• Fit the corner backing and any wall-contained loft king and jack studs at their drawing positions. Keep the beam pockets open above the jacks.
• Fasten using the wall connection schedule, then use the planned lifting method and enough helpers to raise the wall.
• Plumb, anchor and temporarily brace the wall before releasing it.

Check: The right wall is plumb, anchored and braced; its opening and support pockets match the drawing.

• 1 rear wall bottom plate: 2x4, 137 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 rear wall first top plate: 2x4, 137 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 8 rear wall stud: 2x4, 79 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 rear wall stud: 2x4, 79 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 rear wall stud: 2x4, 79 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• Lay the matching first-layer plates side by side and transfer the member stations from the wall drawing.
• Mark both stud edges and label opening, corner-backing and loft-seat members before fastening.
• Keep second top plates aside until all four walls are standing.

Check: All pieces are marked with their matching cut-list IDs and reference edges.

• Assemble the labeled plates and studs flat on a supported work surface; align the reference edges and square the frame.
• Fit the corner backing and any wall-contained loft king and jack studs at their drawing positions. Keep the beam pockets open above the jacks.
• Fasten using the wall connection schedule, then use the planned lifting method and enough helpers to raise the wall.
• Plumb, anchor and temporarily brace the wall before releasing it.

Check: The rear wall is plumb, anchored and braced; its opening and support pockets match the drawing.

• 2 front wall bottom plate: 2x4, 36 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 front wall first top plate: 2x4, 137 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 7 front wall king or full stud: 2x4, 79 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 front wall king or full stud: 2x4, 79 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 2 door header jack stud: 2x4, 70 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 door header ply: 2x6, 67 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in.
• 1 door header ply: 2x6, 67 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in.
• 1 door header spacer: 1/2 plywood, 67 in long, actual section 1/2 x 5 1/2 in.
• 5 door header cripple: 2x4, 3 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 door header cripple: 2x4, 3 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• Lay the matching first-layer plates side by side and transfer the member stations from the wall drawing.
• Mark both stud edges and label opening, corner-backing and loft-seat members before fastening.
• Keep second top plates aside until all four walls are standing.

Check: All pieces are marked with their matching cut-list IDs and reference edges.

• Frame the 64 by 72-inch clear opening with the labeled king studs, jacks, header plies, spacer and cripples.
• Measure the opening height from the finished floor datum. Keep the header underside at the drawing elevation.
• Assemble and square the front wall on a supported platform; fasten according to the selected header and wall connection details.
• Lift the wall into place, align it between the side walls and plumb, anchor and brace it.

Check: The front wall is plumb, anchored and braced; its opening and support pockets match the drawing.

• 1 left wall cap plate: 2x4, 156 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 left wall cap plate: 2x4, 76 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 right wall cap plate: 2x4, 156 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 right wall cap plate: 2x4, 76 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 rear wall cap plate: 2x4, 144 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 front wall cap plate: 2x4, 144 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• Fit the second top plates over the standing walls using the marked corner laps and staggered joint positions.
• Bring the completed cap surface to Z = 84 inches above the floor.
• Complete the specified wall-to-wall ties and recheck the wall diagonals, plumb and temporary bracing.

Check: Caps tie the walls together with the drawn corner laps and joint offsets.

• 1 flush loft beam ply: 2x8, 144 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 7 1/4 in.
• 1 flush loft beam ply: 2x8, 144 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 7 1/4 in.
• 1 loft rear ledger: 2x6, 137 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in.
• 8 loft joist: 2x6, 44 7/8 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in.
• 1 loft joist: 2x6, 44 7/8 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in.
• 1 loft joist: 2x6, 44 7/8 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in.
• Mark the beam-end bearing, rear ledger and joist stations from the loft drawing.
• Select the joist hangers, beam-ply fastening and ledger anchors before cutting connection-dependent details.

Check: All pieces are marked with their matching cut-list IDs and reference edges.

• Assemble the continuous beam plies using the selected ply-fastening detail.
• Lower the beam onto the paired wall seats with the planned lifting method; keep both ends fully seated.
• Complete beam-end and wall-support connections. Keep the main floor free of interior posts.

Check: Both beam ends bear at the drawn wall seats and are restrained by the selected connections.

• 1 loft rear ledger: 2x6, 137 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in.
• Set the ledger at its drawing height against the rear-wall studs.
• Install the selected structural anchors into the required backing; verify edge distances and bearing.

Check: The ledger is level and attached using its specified structural connection.

• Mark joist centerlines at X = 4 1/4, 16, 32, 48, 64, 80, 96, 112, 128, 139 3/4 inches.
• 8 loft joist: 2x6, 44 7/8 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in.
• 1 loft joist: 2x6, 44 7/8 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in.
• 1 loft joist: 2x6, 44 7/8 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 in.
• Fit each front end in its selected hanger and retain the drawn rear bearing on the ledger.
• Use the connector manufacturer’s fasteners; do not substitute general-purpose screws.

Check: Every loft joist has the specified front connector and rear bearing.

• 1 loft deck panel: 3/4 plywood, 92 7/16 in long, actual section 3/4 x 48 in.
• 1 loft deck panel: 3/4 plywood, 44 7/16 in long, actual section 3/4 x 48 in.
• Mark the supported panel joints from the loft drawing and follow the sheet allocation.
• Keep the specified strength direction and panel gaps.

Check: All pieces are marked with their matching cut-list IDs and reference edges.

• Fit the loft panels with their short joints supported as drawn.
• Fasten using the selected panel schedule and inspect the edge support.
• Keep the loft unloaded until its permitted load, access and edge-protection details are complete.

Check: The deck is supported and fastened, with unresolved access and loading requirements recorded.

• 11 left lower rafter: 2x4, 47 3/4 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 11 left upper rafter: 2x4, 54 13/16 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 11 right lower rafter: 2x4, 47 3/4 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 11 right upper rafter: 2x4, 54 13/16 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• Transfer the exact stock-coordinate profiles to the marked blanks; keep mirrored parts labeled.
• Cut one complete gambrel frame first and dry-fit it against the roof layout before repeating the cuts.
• Use an engineered roof-joint connection design. The plates shown indicate their positions, not a product specification.

Check: All pieces are marked with their matching cut-list IDs and reference edges.

• Assemble the four labeled members on a flat layout using the specified roof connectors and fastening process.
• Lift the completed frame onto the caps at centerline Y = 3/4 inches. Preserve its left/right orientation.
• Hold the frame plumb and complete the designed bearing, uplift and spread-restraint connections.
• Brace the frame before releasing the lifting support and keep prior frames restrained.

Check: The frame is seated, plumb, connected and temporarily braced.

• Assemble the four labeled members on a flat layout using the specified roof connectors and fastening process.
• Lift the completed frame onto the caps at centerline Y = 239 1/4 inches. Preserve its left/right orientation.
• Hold the frame plumb and complete the designed bearing, uplift and spread-restraint connections.
• Brace the frame before releasing the lifting support and keep prior frames restrained.

Check: The frame is seated, plumb, connected and temporarily braced.

• Assemble the four labeled members on a flat layout using the specified roof connectors and fastening process.
• Lift the completed frame onto the caps at centerline Y = 24 inches. Preserve its left/right orientation.
• Hold the frame plumb and complete the designed bearing, uplift and spread-restraint connections.
• Brace the frame before releasing the lifting support and keep prior frames restrained.

Check: The frame is seated, plumb, connected and temporarily braced.

• Assemble the four labeled members on a flat layout using the specified roof connectors and fastening process.
• Lift the completed frame onto the caps at centerline Y = 48 inches. Preserve its left/right orientation.
• Hold the frame plumb and complete the designed bearing, uplift and spread-restraint connections.
• Brace the frame before releasing the lifting support and keep prior frames restrained.

Check: The frame is seated, plumb, connected and temporarily braced.

• Assemble the four labeled members on a flat layout using the specified roof connectors and fastening process.
• Lift the completed frame onto the caps at centerline Y = 72 inches. Preserve its left/right orientation.
• Hold the frame plumb and complete the designed bearing, uplift and spread-restraint connections.
• Brace the frame before releasing the lifting support and keep prior frames restrained.

Check: The frame is seated, plumb, connected and temporarily braced.

• Assemble the four labeled members on a flat layout using the specified roof connectors and fastening process.
• Lift the completed frame onto the caps at centerline Y = 96 inches. Preserve its left/right orientation.
• Hold the frame plumb and complete the designed bearing, uplift and spread-restraint connections.
• Brace the frame before releasing the lifting support and keep prior frames restrained.

Check: The frame is seated, plumb, connected and temporarily braced.

• Assemble the four labeled members on a flat layout using the specified roof connectors and fastening process.
• Lift the completed frame onto the caps at centerline Y = 120 inches. Preserve its left/right orientation.
• Hold the frame plumb and complete the designed bearing, uplift and spread-restraint connections.
• Brace the frame before releasing the lifting support and keep prior frames restrained.

Check: The frame is seated, plumb, connected and temporarily braced.

• Assemble the four labeled members on a flat layout using the specified roof connectors and fastening process.
• Lift the completed frame onto the caps at centerline Y = 144 inches. Preserve its left/right orientation.
• Hold the frame plumb and complete the designed bearing, uplift and spread-restraint connections.
• Brace the frame before releasing the lifting support and keep prior frames restrained.

Check: The frame is seated, plumb, connected and temporarily braced.

• Assemble the four labeled members on a flat layout using the specified roof connectors and fastening process.
• Lift the completed frame onto the caps at centerline Y = 168 inches. Preserve its left/right orientation.
• Hold the frame plumb and complete the designed bearing, uplift and spread-restraint connections.
• Brace the frame before releasing the lifting support and keep prior frames restrained.

Check: The frame is seated, plumb, connected and temporarily braced.

• Assemble the four labeled members on a flat layout using the specified roof connectors and fastening process.
• Lift the completed frame onto the caps at centerline Y = 192 inches. Preserve its left/right orientation.
• Hold the frame plumb and complete the designed bearing, uplift and spread-restraint connections.
• Brace the frame before releasing the lifting support and keep prior frames restrained.

Check: The frame is seated, plumb, connected and temporarily braced.

• Assemble the four labeled members on a flat layout using the specified roof connectors and fastening process.
• Lift the completed frame onto the caps at centerline Y = 216 inches. Preserve its left/right orientation.
• Hold the frame plumb and complete the designed bearing, uplift and spread-restraint connections.
• Brace the frame before releasing the lifting support and keep prior frames restrained.

Check: The frame is seated, plumb, connected and temporarily braced.

• Transfer the exact gable-stud and relieved-spacer profiles from the cut-profile drawings.
• Keep the gable studs perpendicular to the end wall, with their full wall depth front to rear.
• Label front and rear spacers and inner rafters; keep their connector reliefs correctly oriented.

Check: All pieces are marked with their matching cut-list IDs and reference edges.

• Fit the 16 shaped infill members at the front and rear positions shown.
• Seat their lower ends on the wall caps and fit the angled tops to the drawn roof boundary.
• Keep their full wall depth perpendicular to the end face and fasten with the selected end-wall detail.

Check: The infill follows the roof outline and preserves the full end-wall depth.

• Place the shaped plywood spacers against the inside of the outer end rafters.
• Align each relief with the connector location and preserve the specified cavity.
• Fasten with the selected paired-frame detail; do not fill connector clearances with unshown packing.

Check: Every spacer is oriented correctly and the connector reliefs remain open.

• Fit the additional inner rafters against the spacer faces, matching each labeled profile.
• Keep the inner faces aligned with the end-wall lining plane.
• Complete the selected frame-to-spacer connection. Choose insulation, lining and moisture control separately.

Check: The paired end assemblies finish flush to their intended inner lining plane.

• 4 roof panel seam blocking: 2x4, 19 3/4 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 16 roof panel seam blocking: 2x4, 22 1/2 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• Mark each length and slope position from the measured blocking drawing before cutting.
• Keep the top support faces aligned with the roof-panel seam and label front, intermediate and rear pieces.

Check: All pieces are marked with their matching cut-list IDs and reference edges.

• Fit the labeled longitudinal blocks between the completed roof frames, using the inner end rafters at the front and rear.
• Set their support faces flush with the roof plane beneath the panel seams.
• Complete the selected block-end connections before installing roof sheathing.

Check: The seams have continuous support between adjacent rafters without displaced or floating blocks.

• Verify the delivered panel-body thickness and usable factory-lap coverage before cutting.
• Keep all grooves vertical. Cut square wall blanks from the sheet allocation and transfer shaped gable and door-opening profiles exactly.
• Seal cut edges as the panel manufacturer requires. Keep openings, laps and the wall-to-gable joint labeled.

Check: All pieces are marked with their matching cut-list IDs and reference edges.

• Start from the drawing datum and align the marked factory edges and opening cuts.
• Maintain the selected product edge clearances, panel gaps and vertical groove direction.
• Fasten into the marked framing with the selected panel schedule; keep drainage and flashing laps open.

Check: Panel joints have their required backing and clearances; opening cuts match the frame.

• Start from the drawing datum and align the marked factory edges and opening cuts.
• Maintain the selected product edge clearances, panel gaps and vertical groove direction.
• Fasten into the marked framing with the selected panel schedule; keep drainage and flashing laps open.

Check: Panel joints have their required backing and clearances; opening cuts match the frame.

• Start from the drawing datum and align the marked factory edges and opening cuts.
• Maintain the selected product edge clearances, panel gaps and vertical groove direction.
• Fasten into the marked framing with the selected panel schedule; keep drainage and flashing laps open.

Check: Panel joints have their required backing and clearances; opening cuts match the frame.

• Start from the drawing datum and align the marked factory edges and opening cuts.
• Maintain the selected product edge clearances, panel gaps and vertical groove direction.
• Fasten into the marked framing with the selected panel schedule; keep drainage and flashing laps open.

Check: Panel joints have their required backing and clearances; opening cuts match the frame.

• Fit the labeled shaped panels to the front and rear roof outlines.
• Keep the wall-to-gable seam at Z = 84 inches and maintain the required joint gaps.
• Preserve vertical grooves and complete the selected fastening and seam-flashing detail.

Check: Both gables fit their roof outlines and the horizontal seams can drain.

• 4 roof sheathing panel: 1/2 plywood, 75 15/16 in long, actual section 1/2 x 47 3/4 in.
• 2 roof sheathing panel: 1/2 plywood, 95 7/8 in long, actual section 1/2 x 47 3/4 in.
• 4 roof sheathing panel: 1/2 plywood, 75 15/16 in long, actual section 1/2 x 23 15/16 in.
• 2 roof sheathing panel: 1/2 plywood, 95 7/8 in long, actual section 1/2 x 23 15/16 in.
• 4 roof sheathing panel: 1/2 plywood, 75 15/16 in long, actual section 1/2 x 30 3/4 in.
• 2 roof sheathing panel: 1/2 plywood, 95 7/8 in long, actual section 1/2 x 30 3/4 in.
• Use the exact slope-width blanks and sheet allocation. Keep the panel strength direction and supported joints shown.
• Mark each lower or upper facet and front-to-rear position before taking panels to the roof.

Check: All pieces are marked with their matching cut-list IDs and reference edges.

• Place the panels on their labeled roof facets with the specified edge gaps and front/rear overhangs.
• Keep panel joints over the framing and complete the selected edge-support and nailing details.
• Use stable roof-access equipment and fall protection; keep all roof frames restrained during sheathing.

Check: All four roof facets are sheathed with supported joints and aligned overhangs.

• Install the selected eave metal before the underlayment, keeping the outer return clear of the siding face.
• Follow the product instructions for hidden laps, fastening, exposed coverage and edge terminations.
• Use the listed roof areas and lengths to choose product quantities. Add the manufacturer's required overlaps and cutting allowance.
• Check each completed transition before concealing it with the next layer.

Check: This layer follows the selected roof system and sheds water onto the layer below.

• Lay the selected membrane from lower to upper courses with its required side and end laps.
• Follow the product instructions for hidden laps, fastening, exposed coverage and edge terminations.
• Use the listed roof areas and lengths to choose product quantities. Add the manufacturer's required overlaps and cutting allowance.
• Check each completed transition before concealing it with the next layer.

Check: This layer follows the selected roof system and sheds water onto the layer below.

• Fit the rake metal in the lap order required by the selected roof system.
• Follow the product instructions for hidden laps, fastening, exposed coverage and edge terminations.
• Use the listed roof areas and lengths to choose product quantities. Add the manufacturer's required overlaps and cutting allowance.
• Check each completed transition before concealing it with the next layer.

Check: This layer follows the selected roof system and sheds water onto the layer below.

• Install the selected starter and lower field courses, working from eave toward knee.
• Follow the product instructions for hidden laps, fastening, exposed coverage and edge terminations.
• Use the listed roof areas and lengths to choose product quantities. Add the manufacturer's required overlaps and cutting allowance.
• Check each completed transition before concealing it with the next layer.

Check: This layer follows the selected roof system and sheds water onto the layer below.

• Place the transition flashing above the lower shingles, with its upper flange beneath the upper field.
• Follow the product instructions for hidden laps, fastening, exposed coverage and edge terminations.
• Use the listed roof areas and lengths to choose product quantities. Add the manufacturer's required overlaps and cutting allowance.
• Check each completed transition before concealing it with the next layer.

Check: This layer follows the selected roof system and sheds water onto the layer below.

• Work from each knee toward the ridge using the selected exposure and fastening pattern.
• Follow the product instructions for hidden laps, fastening, exposed coverage and edge terminations.
• Use the listed roof areas and lengths to choose product quantities. Add the manufacturer's required overlaps and cutting allowance.
• Check each completed transition before concealing it with the next layer.

Check: This layer follows the selected roof system and sheds water onto the layer below.

• Install the designed ridge closure or ventilation, then lay caps with the selected exposure and laps.
• Follow the product instructions for hidden laps, fastening, exposed coverage and edge terminations.
• Use the listed roof areas and lengths to choose product quantities. Add the manufacturer's required overlaps and cutting allowance.
• Check each completed transition before concealing it with the next layer.

Check: This layer follows the selected roof system and sheds water onto the layer below.

• Measure the completed opening before cutting the 31 11/16 by 71 5/8-inch leaves.
• 1 left t1-11 door skin: 5/8 T1-11 siding panel, 71 5/8 in long, actual section 5/8 x 31 11/16 in.
• 1 right t1-11 door skin: 5/8 T1-11 siding panel, 71 5/8 in long, actual section 5/8 x 31 11/16 in.
• 1 left exterior door stile: 2x4, 71 5/8 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 left exterior door stile: 2x4, 71 5/8 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 left exterior door bottom rail: 2x4, 24 11/16 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 left exterior door top rail: 2x4, 24 11/16 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 2 right exterior door stile: 2x4, 71 5/8 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 right exterior door bottom rail: 2x4, 24 11/16 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 right exterior door top rail: 2x4, 24 11/16 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 left exterior door middle rail: 2x4, 24 11/16 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• Use the matching cut list for the remaining distinct sizes.
• Keep the T1-11 grooves vertical and the stiles and rails on the exterior face.
• Resolve skin fastening, sag resistance and rated hinge attachments before assembling the leaves.

Check: All pieces are marked with their matching cut-list IDs and reference edges.

• 2 exterior 2x4 door jamb: 2x4, 72 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 exterior 2x4 door head: 2x4, 71 in long, actual section 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 in.
• Seat the jambs and head against their intended backing and align their outer faces with the exterior door framing.
• Integrate the head flashing and recheck the clear opening before drilling the selected hinge pattern.

Check: The jambs are plumb, the head is level and the hinge backing is ready.

• Assemble the leaf flat with exterior stiles and rails; clamp square and fasten with the resolved door detail.
• Support the leaf on blocks while fastening the selected hinges into the specified backing.
• Set 1/8-inch side gaps, 1/8-inch top gap and 1/4-inch bottom gap; leave 3/8 inch between leaves.
• Check hinge travel and sag before removing the supports.

Check: The leaf holds its clearances and operates on the selected hardware without rubbing.

• Assemble the leaf flat with exterior stiles and rails; clamp square and fasten with the resolved door detail.
• Support the leaf on blocks while fastening the selected hinges into the specified backing.
• Set 1/8-inch side gaps, 1/8-inch top gap and 1/4-inch bottom gap; leave 3/8 inch between leaves.
• Check hinge travel and sag before removing the supports.

Check: The leaf holds its clearances and operates on the selected hardware without rubbing.

• 1 door meeting astragal over exterior frames: 1x2, 71 5/8 in long, actual section 3/4 x 1 1/2 in.
• Close and align both leaves, then attach the strip to the designated active leaf only.
• Keep the leaf-opening order, latch and selected weather seals clear through their full travel.

Check: The strip covers the meeting gap without binding the opposite leaf.

• Fit the selected pull, latch and fixed-leaf restraints into the specified solid backing.
• Follow the hardware manufacturer's fastener and edge-distance instructions. Confirm the hinge, handle and latch quantities before ordering.
• Operate the doors and hardware open and closed, and correct sag or binding.

Check: Both leaves close, secure and reopen freely.

• 2 corner front or rear trim: 1x4, 84 in long, actual section 3/4 x 3 1/2 in.
• 2 corner front or rear trim: 1x4, 84 in long, actual section 3/4 x 3 1/2 in.
• 2 corner side trim: 1x4, 84 in long, actual section 3/4 x 3 1/2 in.
• 2 corner side trim: 1x4, 84 in long, actual section 3/4 x 3 1/2 in.
• Fit each front or rear board over the edge of its side return, seating both boards against the measured T1-11 faces.
• Preserve required bottom clearances and drainage paths; seal cut ends and fasten into the specified backing.

Check: Every corner return closes without a gap and preserves the selected weather detail.

• 1 gable-to-wall seam trim: 1x4, 139 3/4 in long, actual section 3/4 x 3 1/2 in.
• 1 gable-to-wall seam trim: 1x4, 139 3/4 in long, actual section 3/4 x 3 1/2 in.
• Center the continuous seam boards over the Z = 84-inch panel joint, fitting their ends between the corner trims.
• Preserve the flashing and drainage detail behind the boards; fasten into the specified backing and finish cut ends.

Check: Both horizontal seams are covered without replacing their flashing.