Before you start
- Use only sound untreated wood. Wear eye protection, clamp round stock in a V-block, and use a drill depth stop.
- Dimensions are in inches. These CAD assemblies have not been physically built or load-tested. Purchased hardware is schematic; measure it before drilling.
- Choose a secure support and rated hanging hardware for the finished feeder. Keep the feeder accessible for inspection and cleaning.
- Use a 2 in cup with a 1 in bore, 1 3/8 in outside diameter, and 3/16 in walls.
- The wooden spring clothespin is a purchased part, shown nominally 3 1/4 in long. Its jaws and spring are schematic. Match the screw position to the actual jaw without drilling the spring.
- The cavity opens downwards as drawn. A 1 in thick top plug provides screw embedment; use a 3/4 in screw and confirm it cannot enter the feed cavity.
Dimensions and opening sizes
- Cedar cup length
- 2 in
- Cedar cup outside diameter
- 1 3/8 in
- Feed cavity diameter
- 1 in
- Feed cavity depth
- 1 in
- Cup wall thickness
- 3/16 in
Shopping list
| Buy | Material | Stock size |
|---|---|---|
| 1 piece | Untreated cedar dowel or turned blank | 1-3/8 in diameter x at least 3 in |
| 1 piece | Wooden spring clothespin | About 3-1/4 in long; sound wood |
| 1 piece | Exterior pan-head wood screw | #6 x 3/4 in |
Quantity notes
Stock for one complete feeder of this configuration; allowances included where noted.
Required installation supplies
- Choose a support that the actual clothespin grips securely.
Tools & equipment
- Tape measure, square, pencil and center punch
- Saw suitable for wood and selected metal hardware
- Drill, V-block and clamps, 1 in boring bit and depth stop
- Pilot bits and screwdriver for selected hardware
- Sandpaper and deburring file
BEFORE YOU BUILD
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Instructions
01 Cut and mark the cedar cup
- Cut an untreated cedar blank to 2 in long and 1-3/8 in outside diameter.
- Mark the center on both end faces. Mark the lower end as the feeding opening.
- Reject splits that cross the cup wall or the upper attachment area.
Check: Reject splits that cross the cup wall or the upper attachment area.
02 Bore the feed cavity
- Clamp the blank in a V-block with the lower end facing the bit.
- Use a 1 in bit and a depth stop to drill exactly 1 in into the lower end. Leave the upper 1 in solid.
- Smooth the rim and remove loose splinters. The remaining side wall is 3/16 in thick.
Check: Smooth the rim and remove loose splinters. The remaining side wall is 3/16 in thick.
03 Fit the clothespin
- Choose a sound wooden spring clothespin. Open and close it before drilling.
- Hold the upper end of the cup beneath the lower jaw, clear of the spring and gripping end. Mark a centered screw clearance hole through that jaw only.
- Drill the jaw clearance hole. Drill a pilot into the center of the solid cup top, sized for the selected #6 screw.
Check: Drill the jaw clearance hole. Drill a pilot into the center of the solid cup top, sized for the selected #6 screw.
04 Attach the cup
- Drive a #6 x 3/4 in exterior screw through the lower jaw into the cup top.
- Tighten gently so the jaw does not split. Confirm that the screw tip stays clear of the feeding cavity.
- Operate the clip and check that the upper jaw clears the screw head.
Check: Operate the clip and check that the upper jaw clears the screw head.
05 Clip the feeder in place
- Press suet into the blind cavity. Hold the cup with its opening downwards as shown.
- Clip to a firm, sheltered support where the spring grips securely. Check the grip before releasing the feeder.
- Remove old suet and clean the cup before refilling. Replace a cracked cup, weak spring, or loose jaw.
Check: The clip grips securely and the feed cavity remains clear of the screw.
Sources
Functional dimensions informed by the cited Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife woodworking sheet. CAD, instructions, schedules and illustrations authored for DIY Plans.